Have you ever stopped to consider what is in your skincare products, and whether any of those fancy words and ingredients really mean or do anything?
One such ingredient that you may see advertised on your moisturizers is collagen, which is also often sold as an oral supplement. In the body, collagen is one of the most abundant proteins, and in the skin specifically, collagen XII is important for connectivity and homeostasis (Schönborn et al., 2020). Research on collagen usage in cosmetics is rather limited, as it is usually done in cosmetic companies, which choose to patent the research instead of publishing it. In cosmetics, the most common form of collagen is the hydrolyzed form, which is collagen broken up into short polypeptides and small peptides (Sionkowska et al., 2020). This hydrolyzed collagen is great at binding water, and because it is smaller, it can penetrate deeper skin cells and hydrate the skin. Another use of collagen in cosmetics is in combination with polymers and biopolymers to increase film-forming. Blending collagen with substances such as polyvinyl alcohol allows it to form a film across the surface of the skin, reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increasing water retention (Sionkowska et al., 2020).
Another common ingredient that has become popular in skincare products is hyaluronic acid (HA). Like collagen, HA is also a naturally occurring substance in the body. It plays an important role in water transport and lubrication between joints and tissues (Smejkalova et al., 2015). Interestingly, the moisturizing properties of HA are related to its molecular weight. Larger fragments of HA can bind more water, and thus are used to increase hydration and TEWL on upper epidermis layers (Smejkalova et al., 2015). Conversely, smaller fragments are better at penetrating deeper layers of skin. Here, they serve as signaling molecules to the skin cells to produce new hyaluronan molecules (positive feedback!), thus inducing anti-aging effects (Smejkalova et al., 2015).
This topic raises a question of ethics especially regarding company research and advertising. Why are companies not transparent with research that may prove/disprove the effects of their products? Why is independent research the only way in which we can determine the efficacy of the products we buy? So far it sounds like these products may produce at least some of the benefits they promise. However, it is still important to check what is in the products you buy so you know if they really do what they say before you put them on your skin. And in these coming dry, winter months, don’t forget to moisturize!
References
Schönborn, K., Willenborg, S., Schulz, J. N., Imhof, T., Eming, S. A., Quondamatteo, F., ... & Krieg, T. (2020). Role of collagen XII in skin homeostasis and repair. Matrix Biology, 94, 57-76.
Sionkowska, A., Adamiak, K., Musiał, K., & Gadomska, M. (2020). Collagen based materials in cosmetic applications: A review. Materials, 13(19), 4217.
Smejkalova, D., Huerta-Angeles, G., Ehlova, T., & Dobrouc, D. (2015). Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin care. Harry’s 9th Edition, 2, 605-622.
One of the ingredients in my daily face lotion is C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, which is used as a solvent for lipids. Ethanol is also used as a solvent in lotions. Ethanol causes the stratum corneum to detach from the stratum granulosum, while C12-C15 alkyl benzoate does not cause skin damage. When Fucoxanthin (a carotenoid with antioxidant properties) was added to ethanol, gene expression of IL-6 and IL-8 decreased. Fucoxanthin addition to C12-C15 alkyl benzoate did not change the expression of IL-6 and IL-8, meaning that the inflammatory response and keratinocyte development remained the same. Overall, I think I prefer C12-C15 alkyl benzoate in my lotion over ethanol.
ReplyDeleteSpagolla Napoleão Tavares R, Stuchi Maria-Engler S, Colepicolo P, Debonsi HM, Schäfer-Korting M, Marx U, Rigo Gaspar L, Zoschke C. Skin Irritation Testing beyond Tissue Viability: Fucoxanthin Effects on Inflammation, Homeostasis, and Metabolism. Pharmaceutics. 2020; 12(2):136. https://doi.org/10.3390/pharmaceutics12020136
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ReplyDeleteOne of the things I see most often in cosmetics is direct-to-consumer advertising. Many YouTube influencers or Instagram influencers are coming out with their own skin care line. But do they really understand the scientific research going on behind the scenes before advertising to their “fans”. Cosmetic advertising uses a form of scientific language called pseudoscientific language (Fowler et al., 2019). Pseudoscientific language influences consumers to by cosmetic products because of the belief that the product being advertised is based on a scientific method (Fowler et al., 2019). Moreover, Fowler et al. reviewed studies showing that cosmetic companies have also expressed their advertising as “Cosmeceuticals” combining cosmetics and pharmaceuticals AKA drugs such as the product you mentioned “Hyaluronic Acid” or Alpha Hydroxy Acid. Due to an incident that caused blindness in consumers, the FDA took action to protect consumers from cosmetic use and began evaluating and regulating cosmetics (Fowler et al., 2019). Conversely, The FDA does not recognize cosmeceuticals as a practical category therefore the FDA is not approving any of these products advertised as cosmeceuticals.
ReplyDeleteLike you had mentioned, there is research being done however cosmetic companies are not conveying that same research information with their consumers and instead are sharing vague and misleading information. I think that the FDA would need to take part of the cosmeceutical claim regulations in order to decrease the direct-to-consumer advertising and give consumers more real scientific research data to provide them with a better and more accurate decision of the product they are buying.
FOWLER, J. G., CARLSON, L., & CHAUDHURI, H. R. (2019). Assessing Scientific Claims In Print Ads that Promote Cosmetics: How Consumers Perceive Cosmeceutical Claims. Journal of Advertising Research, 59(4), 466–482. https://doi.org/10.2501/JAR-2018-048
One of the common ingredients that are in our skin care products is synthetic fragrances. Most of the type we only see the word "fragrance" on the packaging, however, that word sometimes cover dozens and hundreds of different chemicals that are off the labels. Many fragrances used are synthetically derived, meaning that they are petroleum-based and can be harmful to human health. When inhaled, theses compounds are viewed as toxins by our immune system, which would cause an overexpression of enzymes and proteins if we are exposed for a long period of time. Moreover, the overexpressed enzymes could convert androgen into estrogens that affects our endocrine system. Diseases such as diabetes, obesity, cancer have been closely linked to synthetic scents. Therefore, we need to be aware of what we use and put on our skin.
ReplyDeletehttps://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s10668-020-00829-4